Monday, February 3, 2014

The Softness And Fineness Of Vicuna Fiber

By Jayne Rutledge


Rare and implausibly soft, vicuna fiber has been a well kept secret over the centuries. Vicunas living in the high altitudes and freezing conditions of the Andes were regarded by the Incas as sacred animals. The Incas soon discovered the softness of the fleece of this camelid and the fibers were extracted from their winter coats to weave soft cloth for their royalty to wear. Today these fibers are highly sought after and are regarded by aficionados as the silkiest, finest hair in the world.

While the Incas reigned, the vicunas roamed the Andes in large numbers. Unfortunately, subsequent civilizations, from the time of the Spanish conquistadors, slaughtered them for their precious fleece. By 1966 they were nearly extinct and drastic measures needed to be taken. Governments stepped in and thanks to conservation efforts, careful management and strict anti-poaching efforts by various parties, numbers have increased once again.

In 1994, three companies were selected to join a consortium formed by the Peruvian government. They had the right to process and export fabrics and finished products made from the fibers. The strategy of these companies has been to establish reserves where these animals are protected, bred and sheared. They are committed to keeping the quality and increasing the quantities available for export.

Vicunas are camelids that look like small llamas and their coats are a marvel of evolution. They are not only unusually light and soft but keep them warm at freezing altitudes. The fleece is neither hair or wool but more liker a downy covering that is sheared off the back and neck.

The fleece has two different layers. The inner one offers insulation due to the fact that fibers are packed densely and air filled pockets are formed by tiny scales locking together. The outside layer is long and silky. The natural colors of the coat range from golden brown to deep fawn.

In 1994 the Peruvian government formed a consortium of companies who were allowed to export fibers and finished products. The strategy of these companies has been to establish reserves for these animals. Vicunas are not domestic animals and do not adjust to living in captivity. They starve themselves and die. This is why it is important for them to live in reserves where they can have their freedom but receive protection at the same time.

An adult is sheared every two years and after removing the coarser fibers, an amount of a mere 120 grams usually remains. This is not even enough to make one scarf. Fibers measure an average of about 12 microns in diameter. This is about eight times finer than a human hair and the finest cashmere is about 14 or 15 microns. Besides being finer than cashmere, it conforms to the shape of the body and reacts to its movement. It is extremely resilient due to the conditions in which the animals live.

The qualities of vicuna fiber make it highly desirable. It is not only extremely soft, fine and warm but also extremely resilient due to the conditions in which vicunas live. As soft as a cloud it conforms to the shape of the body, reacting to its movements. No wonder demand is growing worldwide as more and more individuals are becoming aware of its extraordinary qualities.




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